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madguy30  
#1 Posted : Monday, December 3, 2018 3:52:56 AM(UTC)
madguy30
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Anyone got any advice for an alternative to normal head cement?

Whatever I get tends to goop up pretty quickly.

I saw something about nail polish?

Edited by user Monday, December 3, 2018 2:47:38 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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OTC_MN  
#2 Posted : Monday, December 3, 2018 4:50:00 AM(UTC)
OTC_MN
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I just use Sally Hansen's Hard as Nails. Cheap, dries fast, works...
"Our tradition is that of the first man who sneaked away to the creek when the tribe did not really need fish."
- Roderick Haig-Brown
weiliwen  
#3 Posted : Monday, December 3, 2018 1:24:31 PM(UTC)
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Yup, nail polish, but not nail polish remover! That's basically acetone, as I recall. I have something called Hard as Hull, and don't even remember where or when I got it. It's still widely available. I took Davie McPhail's advice and cut off about half the bristles on the brush, or else you just have too much cement for the average head.

I used to use Dave's Flexament, but like you said, it off gasses so quickly you're left with a gel, or in my case, a solid.
Bob Williams, "Weiliwen"
thanks 1 user thanked weiliwen for this useful post.
William Schlafer on 12/3/2018(UTC)
William Schlafer  
#4 Posted : Monday, December 3, 2018 4:03:23 PM(UTC)
William Schlafer
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I use Loon Water Based Cement for locking down thread after whip finishes. It works it's way into cracks and crevasses nicely and dries without any residue or odor. Perfect for sealing thread on small bead heads flies (like Pink Squirrels). Dries slowly and is easily cleaned up. A little bit of this goes a long way. I think I've used the same bottle for several years now.

UV cement works great for building up wing cases, or if you really want to make your flies bomb proof. Once it's set with a UV light, it's rock hard, so it's not perfect for all applications. Can be a bit pricey and you will need a UV lamp to make it set. But is a lot faster than traditional fly tying cement and comes in different thicknesses. You can also get a florescent version that will glow and reflect light underwater.

For general work, Zap-A-Gap does the job. Has about 20-30 seconds or so of work-ability before it hardens. It's basically Super Glue and can sometimes leave a white residue and messy to use. The bottle cap can cement it's self in place, so wipe off any that gets in the bottle threads before reapplying the cap. It can also dry out in the bottle over a period of time if air gets to it.


-Bill
“You'll never look back on your life and wish you had spent more time in the office." -- Brian Trautman, Captain SV Delos
William Schlafer  
#5 Posted : Monday, December 3, 2018 4:11:23 PM(UTC)
William Schlafer
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Originally Posted by: weiliwen Go to Quoted Post
I took Davie McPhail's advice and cut off about half the bristles on the brush, or else you just have too much cement for the average head.


Good point. Cutting down the brush really helps get into tighter spots and helps reduce over application of the product. Just don't use your best scissors for cutting the wet brush or you'll end up with cement reside that will have to be scraped off. A bodkin can help apply glue in a more controlled way. I found a bunch of tiny cheap paint brushes that I use from time to time also.


-Bill
“You'll never look back on your life and wish you had spent more time in the office." -- Brian Trautman, Captain SV Delos
OTC_MN  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, December 4, 2018 1:48:20 PM(UTC)
OTC_MN
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Good timing on Tim Flagler's latest tying tip, about head cement bottles: Head cement caps

I've heard the Loon water-based is great, and I'll probably try that when my Sally Hansen's runs out, but at the rate I use it, that'll be in roughly 2047... I think I have some Hard as Hull around too. I used it over the top of UV resin when the reason I had would dry kind of tacky.

For the caps on Zap-a-gap and other kinds of super glue...put some dubbing wax on the threads of the cap. Keeps them from getting glued on.

I do use UV resin a LOT too. Wing cases, over thread-bodied flies like Perdigons and thread Frenchies, even to firm up the base of a parachute post on a dry fly, or to splay out the poly wing on a thorax dun. Put a drop of the stuff on the base of the post, give the post a twist to kind of get the resin to soak in, then zap it with the UV light. Makes a really firm post.
"Our tradition is that of the first man who sneaked away to the creek when the tribe did not really need fish."
- Roderick Haig-Brown
madguy30  
#7 Posted : Wednesday, December 5, 2018 12:02:25 AM(UTC)
madguy30
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Good replies everyone, thanks. Hard as Nails is good and cheap too so that's good.

Might also look into the thickness of thread...I tend to use one thread for everything.

Just seems like the fly material slides down the hook a little quicker than it should.

I don't like to use a lot of different kinds of threads...too many things to keep track of.
Djo  
#8 Posted : Wednesday, December 5, 2018 1:29:05 AM(UTC)
Djo
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Joined: 1/19/2015(UTC)
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Location: Ames, IA

I have been tying a lot of saltwater flats flies lately. Interestingly almost all of the books, videos, websites, etc. suggest Zap-a-Gap. Much more than you see recommended for fresh water flies. I seldom use any cement on freshwater flies these days other than for putting a nice head on streamers. I suppose the flies are a bit less durable but I can’t really tell the difference.
David
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